In 2001, the Fossil Group paid $5 million for the Swiss watch company Zodiac.
Willy Gad Monnier had bought the Zodiac brand a decade before, in 1990. Montres Zodiac SA, his company, will go bankrupt in 1997. Willy Gad Monnier was a former TAG Heuer stockholder, and his influence on Zodiac watch design in the 1990s could be felt. Genender International Inc. bought Zodiac and its residual assets in 1998, then sold them to Fossil in 2001.
The Fossil Group owns Zodiac watches, which are created in Bienne, Switzerland. Fossil is a watch company based in Richardson, Texas, that is smaller than Richemont or the Swatch Group. Fossil also owns STP, a Swiss movement maker that produces mechanical movements for a number of their subsidiaries. ‘Swiss Technology Production’ is the abbreviation for ‘Swiss Technology Production.’
In This Article...
Is Zodiac a reputable brand?
Are Zodiac Timepieces of High Quality? Zodiac is widely regarded as a high-quality watchmaker. They’re Swiss-made and feature Swiss movements of the highest quality. Swiss Technology Production provides the mechanical movements utilized in Zodiac watches (STP).
Are Zodiac watches considered high-end?
Zodiac watches are one of the few companies that have contributed to establish Switzerland’s position as the world’s leading luxury watchmaking powerhouse. Ariste Calame founded his first workshop in 1882, and thus began the wonderful narrative of this company’s success. Since then, the Zodiac brand has been steadily increasing its production of new and used luxury timepieces, all of which are designed to appeal to watch enthusiasts who value a rich tradition combined with modern technology and creativity to create a statement of style. Since its inception, the brand has dedicated itself to merging and infusing their timepieces with exceptional design and innovation, providing the consumer with something that stands out from the current mediocrity and conventions. But how does the corporation maintain a positive relationship with its customers? To begin, the firm strives to serve its modern and tech-savvy client base by striking a balance that remains true to the founder’s initial spirit of innovation. This preserves the company’s cherished traditions, allowing modern users to journey back into the rich history and legacy that have created the company’s success. On the other hand, the incorporation of innovation and modern technology allows the modern new and pre-owned watch enthusiast to stay in touch with the realities of the present while getting a glimpse of the future. In a nutshell, Zodiac watches are a perfect blend of the past, present, and future, all working together to provide the buyer with the epitome of distinction and elegance. With this mix, the company offers its customers a cycle of innovation that embodies a love for getting the best of everything through adventure and readability. The company offers a wide range of collections that are developed to fulfill the needs of its various users to provide all of the above to the user. Those who enjoy diving to the deepest depths of the ocean will be pleased to learn that the company provides the Super Sea Wolf 68. The case is made of stainless steel, and the bracelet is made of Minelese with a diver’s expansion clasp. It also has a sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating and an automatic movement. In addition, the firm has its well-known Jetomatic collection, which pays homage to the company’s original Pilot watch from the 1960s. The watch features large numbers and Super-LumiNova indices and hands that reflect through the sapphire crystal, making it easier to read. It has an extra-large crown on its 42mm case, which allows users to effortlessly adjust the time even when wearing gloves. Its blue and white dial, which is complemented by an orange second hand, completes the elegant equation that any user would anticipate from such a regal timepiece. These are just a few of the many collections available from the Swiss business for customers who value elegance and pride in their timepieces.
What is the meaning of the Zodiac watch symbol?
The serial killer who plagued Northern California in the late 1960s employed the identical Zodiac watch cross-circle emblem. In a series of taunting letters to the press, the Zodiac killer coined his name by signing them with the Zodiac watch symbol. The iconic Zodiac Sea Wolf model made an appearance in David Fincher’s 2007 thriller Zodiac, which was based on Robert Graysmith’s non-fiction book of the same name. A Zodiac Sea Wolf was worn by murder suspect Arthur Leigh Allen in both the novel and the film.
Willy Gad Monnier, a former Tag Heuer employee, bought the Zodiac trademark in 1990, but his firm, Montres Zodiac SA, filed for bankruptcy in November 1997.
Genender International, Inc. bought the Zodiac inventory, including trademarks, registrations, and other assets, in September 1998.
All of the “Point series” models, the Swiss Formulas, the Sea Wolf, and most automatic watches, as well as all of the Zodiac automatic chronographs, were discontinued by Genender. The Super Sea Wolf and the Marine Life were the only two models from the 1990s that were maintained, and both were modified with new metal bands.
Zodiac watches have been around for nearly 120 years, but on October 1, 2001, the brand underwent a major transformation when it was purchased for $4.7 million by The Fossil Group, one of the world’s largest watch manufacturers. However, this was a positive step because Fossil has helped modernize and adapt the brand to meet the needs of today’s customers. Fossil Inc. released the in February 2010.
What are the Zodiac’s movements?
We drove 1.2 kilometers north of the BaselWorld halls, into residential land, the other afternoon. Where is Fossil’s Basel headquarters, amid the 3 or 4 story buildings? Hundreds of people from all around the world darted back and forth from meetings in this taller-than-average skyscraper for the city. We met with the creative director and brand manager of Zodiac Watches on the seventh floor, in a modest but beautiful corner office.
Here at worn&wound, we adore Zodiac, a brand with a long and illustrious history. Vintage Zodiacs are one of the most cost-effective and diverse objects to acquire. With a wide diversity of aesthetics and mechanics, as well as very unusual and occasionally odd designs. Check out our articles on the epically iconic Sea Wolf and the mechanically superb SST 36000 for two such items that are sure to win you over. Despite the fact that Zodiac is not a household name, they are responsible for numerous “firsts” in the history of wristwatches.
Despite being the first Swiss company to produce an analog quartz watch, Zodiac, like many other manufacturers, did not survive the 1980s. Fossil bought the brand almost 20 years ago, and it is still owned and operated by them today. They’ve continued to make watches for the past decade, but they’ve never come close to recovering their former prominence. While the new watches have always had a distinct DNA that drew on Zodiac’s past, their designs seemed a little out of place. The brand, which was dominated by very large aggressive quartz tool watches, never really caught on with new audiences or enticed collectors of the original watches.
They now want to get Zodiac back on track, restoring it as a brand for both young and veteran watch enthusiasts. Their new Heritage line takes inspiration from their archives, reproducing old styles with minor tweaks for a modern audience. The watches are completely Swiss-made in Fossil’s facilities and employ the STP 1-11, Fossil’s own automatic movement. We had the opportunity to examine and handle current models as well as prototypes for future versions, all of which impressed us.
But, before we get to them, let’s have a look at Fossil and the watches’ movements. Fossil is a brand that has a bad rep. Everyone has heard of them, and many have owned a few (I had and liked a few of the Stark series many moons ago), but the prevalent perception is that they are a low-cost mall brand. We assume that all Fossil watches are created in China, and that they are more fashion watches for the general public than collector watches. While we all know that many fine watches are made in China, and that their production quality is on par with anyone else’s, there is always some skepticism when a company claims to be producing in Switzerland. Doubtless, when the watches are a bit more expensive than their usual wares.
We were informed, however, that Fossil’s Swiss manufacturing facilities are huge and comparable to those of any large Swiss brand. Their movement company, Swiss Technology Production (STP), manufactures and assembles the STP 1-11 movement, which is finely embellished with perlage and Cote de Geneve and visible through the case backs of the Zodiac watches. It’s a 26-jewel automated timepiece with a 44-hour power reserve and a date. I’m not sure about handwinding and hacking, but both seem likely. It resembles an ETA 2824-2 in appearance. Allow that to sink in for a moment: Fossil is a Swiss watchmaker.
The timepieces, above all, looked and felt like the $1,000 watches they were. They have a good weight to them and are nicely polished. The dials appeared to be in perfect condition, even though I didn’t examine them with a loupe. Some of the box sapphire crystals were particularly noteworthy. They faithfully replicated the size of the acrylic crystals on which they are based, while also providing the scratch resistance that sapphire is known for. Making these couldn’t possibly be simple or inexpensive. The advantage of a large brand like Fossil producing watches is that they can keep costs lower than a boutique brand. They have control over their production and can regularly produce enormous volumes. Given that Zodiac was previously a huge brand, it makes logical for them to be revived by a larger brand.
The Astrographic is the first major release, and it is currently available. This is a daring decision as a watch with which to relaunch the brand. The Astrographic, which debuted in 1969, was and continues to be one of the most unusual and stunning mechanical timepieces ever made. What distinguishes it from the rest? The hands are printed on revolving, transparent disks and float over the dial. The end product is reminiscent of the late 1960s’ campy space-age look. Think of the Jetsons, but with a wristband. It’s a risky design that you either love or hate, and it looks just as shocking today as it did in 1969.
With a robust, rectilinear barrel-case and a layered dial that highlights the new floating impression, the current rendition keeps quite loyal to the original. It’s extremely magnetic in person. You’ll become lost in the multilayer dial, fascinated by the gracefully rotating red dot that shows the seconds, whether or whether the design suits your unique aesthetic. Added degrees of detail and finishing, such as the polished markings that dangle over the dial, make the current version more sophisticated, even if the 1969 model is very well depicted.
The casing is 45 x 39mm and is sturdy and powerful. The watch’s softly curved rear huggs the wrist, reducing its size slightly, albeit it’s still a big watch. It has a steel bracelet with a tapering design that looks great. Unfortunately, because the lug width is 30mm, you won’t be able to purchase a leather to replace it. The Astrographic costs $1,195 for the three steel versions and $1,395 for the LE gold PVD version. This isn’t a watch for everyone, but if the design appeals to you, you’ll be pleased with it.
The second model we examined has a far more adaptable design that is both sporty and sophisticated enough for the workplace. This is a gentleman’s sport watch, similar to several iconic timepieces from the 1960s. The Sea Dragon has an exceptionally attractive 39mm barrel case with faceted lugs and exquisite workmanship on the outside. The top surface, which has a small dome to it, is brushed with sunbursts from the center out. With a clear, crisp line, it meets a polished beveled edge and polished lugs. The profile impressed me because the case was maintained quite slim, resulting in a really pleasant watch to wear.
The dial has nailed the classic style once again, but with a more modern feel. It’s a basic but effective design that incorporates color and texture. The sunburst center surface includes attached markers for the hours, each with lume and a splash of color. The outside border has a contrasting chapter ring with a dense minute/second index, giving the normally formal aspects an athletic feel. Hues play an important role in the Sea Dragon design, as each dial variation combines and contrasts several colors, sometimes for harmony, sometimes for contrast. We like the blue, cream, and orange color scheme, which was both elegant and playful.
For $1,195, you can get the Sea Dragon on a steel bracelet, or for $995, you can get it on a leather strap. I’d get the bracelet since it was well-made, with polished center links, a hidden deployant clasp (emblazoned with their great emblem), and end links that were perfectly matched to the case. The polished leather straps were also quite good, although with 20mm lugs, there are a lot of leather straps to choose from.
Finally, we received a sneak peek at what’s coming down the pipeline, which completely blew our minds. The Sea Wolf, Zodiac’s most iconic watch, will be re-released in its entirety next. If you haven’t already done so, read our article on the Zodiac Sea Wolf and then return to obtain some context. Without a doubt, Zodiac is reintroducing a classic watch to the market. While it won’t generate the same amount of publicity as Rolex/tribute Tudor’s to their own vintage divers in the Black Bay, it’s just as cool, if not more so. They didn’t so much modernize a classic design as they did reinterpret it, creating something that had never existed before.
They kept enough of the original to make it recognizable as Sea Wolf, but changed enough to avoid making it a look-alike prop. These will be practical sport watches that have been sized up a little but not too much and are priced like a tool watch should be. They plan to use color to extend the series, similar to how they did with the Sea Dragon, while preserving the classic dial, case, and bezels. Rugged NATOs with steel bezels, as well as dressier variants with gold surrounds and black acrylic bezels, were on display.
There were both vivid and dull colors. Steel models with a faint patina and teals. They were all stunning. The one thing I didn’t see that I’d like to see is a model with no dates. It would have a more symmetrical dial and would be more classic than one with a date.
The problem is that they won’t be out for a long time, so take a big breath and try to ignore that itch I’m sure you’re experiencing. We’ll make sure to keep you informed about their progress.
What makes some timepieces so pricey?
Luxury objects are notorious for being produced in small quantities, and the fact is that, as previously stated, creating an advanced mechanical movement is quite difficult. One issue is that you need trained artisans who can produce and assemble them, and if you estimate that you’ll need fifty extra watchmakers to meet the increased demand, getting these on time isn’t going to be simple. You can’t just ramp up production when demand rises, like you can with other items, because there aren’t enough resources. And the fact is that a high demand for something with a limited supply isn’t entirely undesirable for a luxury brand, because when there is a higher demand for something with a limited availability, the brand will gain in popularity and become more sought-after.
And, as you may be aware, when it comes to the luxury industry, there is a strong link between low output and high costs. You can either mass produce your things and charge cheaper prices, or you can keep production at a reasonably modest and stable level and then raise pricing to ensure that the brand’s reputation remains strong and well-regarded.
Luxury timepieces are produced in small quantities. Rolex, for example, retains its manufacturing quantity at one million, which is interesting because Rolex does not release limited edition watches, but rather manufactures them and then discontinues them when new models are released or when the watch no longer fits into Rolex’s lineup.
On the other hand, many luxury watchmakers produce limited edition versions, such as 500 or 3000 pieces, and naturally, as with other limited edition items. Limited edition watches are naturally more expensive than regular watches since producing a watch involves a lot of money, and if there are only X number of pieces made, the cost of creation needs to be split amongst fewer pieces than if there were no limit.
For these reasons, many timepieces are pricey (and limited). Because having a stock that you can’t get rid of is expensive (especially with expensive watches), it boosts demand and exclusivity of the watch (people are afraid of losing out), and finally, the production and development costs must be spread out among fewer timepieces.
Even if a limited edition is based on an existing model with minor changes, these changes may be costly to implement because many people work on developing a limited edition concept, and obtaining parts, whether from outside vendors or by changing the entire production chain, can be a complicated process, especially for a large corporation.
This is true not only for limited-edition timepieces, but also for a wide range of other watches. We humans have an insatiable desire for what we cannot have, and if luxury watch brands have limited production, obtaining certain timepieces will become increasingly difficult, if not impossible, and at the same time, because people will become more desperate to obtain one, the brands will naturally be able to raise their prices without decreasing demand for the watches. This appears to be a really clever business approach, doesn’t it?
Reduce production, raise prices, and still see a rise in demand. Also, as obtaining an item becomes more difficult, customers tend to value it more when they eventually obtain it, which is important for luxury watch brands because it adds to the products becoming more sought after. And, as a luxury brand, having sought-after products is certainly the top priority. This is similar to Hrmes Birkin Bags, Kelly Bags, and other designer handbags… They aren’t limited edition, but they are exceedingly limited in manufacture, making them extremely difficult to obtain and, as a result, skyrocketing in price on the secondhand market, further driving demand at the official retailer.
The brands don’t want to have a bunch of watches that no one wants, but having an underproduction of timepieces has proven to be quite beneficial to luxury watch brands.
As a result, restricted manufacturing and exclusivity are two factors that contribute to the high cost of watches.
When did the Zodiac watches first appear?
Ariste Calame founded a workshop in Switzerland in 1882, and this is when Zodiac watches were born. He was obsessed with building the most precise watch in the world since he was born the son of a watchmaker, and he developed his first pocket watch the same year. In 1908, he registered the name Zodiac as a trademark. Zodiac was already making their own calibers and movements for their renowned pocket watches at this point. Zodiac introduced their first pocket watch in 1924, which included the caliber 1617 movement.
Zodiac watches are still made today, and the Olympos, Grandrally, and Grandville were debuted in 2018. In the same year, the Super Sea Wolf received a new case and dial design.
Is it true that the Zodiac killer wore a Zodiac watch?
Yes. Zodiac suspect Arthur Leigh Allen (John Carroll Lynch) is shown sporting a watch with the killer’s emblem and the brand name Zodiac on it. The actual Arthur Leigh Allen wore a Zodiac Sea Wolf watch, which was identical to the one worn by the character (pictured below). “To utilize the symbol… to wear the watch, to be at the crime scenes and to know the victims… he would have to be the Zodiac,” Robert Graysmith said in an interview.