A cleaning stand should be included with your saltwater chlorinator cell (basically a stand that allows the cell to stand vertically). Place the cell phone upright on the stand, cable side down. Place a plate or a small tub beneath the cell to catch any spilled solution during pouring. Allow 10 minutes for the solution to settle in the chlorinator cell. Don’t be surprised if this begins to bubble up; this is typical. The acid is eroding the calcium deposits, which causes foaming.
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What is the lifespan of a Zodiac chlorinator cell?
So much for a self-cleaning salt cell, I bought an LM3 40p chlorinator unit on September 27, 2017, and it’s already over three years old.
It’s the same as my old model. The unit is switched off for four months every winter, and when we travel, which has happened three times in the last three years, the unit has only worked for 21 months, totaling 5040 hours since purchase. The cells are supposed to last 5-7 years, therefore at this rate, they should last between 14600 and 20440 hours. Mine has completely ceased working now. I…
When should my chlorinator cell be replaced?
The safe bet is that they will endure between five and seven years. Salt Cells can cost anywhere from $200 to $900 to replace, depending on the model of your chlorinator.
Is it possible to clean a salt cell with vinegar?
Check the cell for calcium and mineral deposits before cleaning. To do so, turn off the power to begin with. If you attempt to remove the unit while the electricity is on, you may receive a shock. After the electricity has been turned off, look within the pool for debris on metal plates. If deposits exist, they will seem light in hue. In the cell, you might notice flaky or crusty deposits.
Remove the deposits with a high-pressure garden hose now that you know where they are. If the garden hose doesn’t work, try removing the deposits with a plastic or wooden tool. To scrape the deposits, make sure you use it lightly on the debris. If the deposits are trapped, gently raise the pressure. Keep in mind that cleaning up clutter takes time. So don’t rush to scrape the flakes; else, you can end up injuring the pool’s walls.
Prepare the vinegar solution. In the market, you can buy a ready-made vinegar solution. It’s also simple to manufacture the solution at home by combining vinegar and water in the proper ratio. Choose a vinegar solution that is neither excessively concentrated nor too dilute. As a general guideline, opt for a mild solution with an equal amount of water and vinegar.
Soak the saltwater cell or hot baths (as the case may be) in a vinegar solution for at least one night. Within a fortnight, the solution can eliminate any leftover debris. Before you submerge the cell, coil the electrical harness beside it. Immerse the cell up to the wiring’s top. Rinse it with a high-pressure garden hose. If moderate deposits remain, repeat the operation with a different solution to completely cleanse the cell.
What are the signs that your chlorinator isn’t working?
Your chlorinator is a miniaturized liquid chlorine production facility. To begin, we must comprehend the salt water chlorination process.
- When brine (salty water) passes through the salt cell, it induces electrosis, which produces liquid chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite), which is subsequently returned to the pool via the eyeball.
- The quickest way to tell if the chlorinator is working is to check the needle or production lights to see if the cell is clean.
- Make sure the pool has enough salt.
- A light or dial on the chlorinator box should indicate that it is operational.
- Place your thumb over the test tube in your test kit. Then take the water and place it right into the eyeball.
- Test the water that has just come out of the chlorinator; it should have a high chlorine level. (Keep in mind that if it is extremely high, the test tablet may be bleached, therefore you may need to dilute the water you’re testing.) The chlorinator will not work if there is no chlorine reading.
- You won’t know if you’ve been using chlorine as a dosing agent. So, wait until the chlorine reading is zero before performing the test.
The second method is to examine your cell housing (if it is visible, as not all are). Gaseous activity is created by the brine passing over the cell. If the water is clear, chlorine is not being produced. The water going through the cell should have a hazy appearance. Assuming there is enough salt in the pool, there must be some motion. Keep in mind that less salt equals less chlorine. So, first and foremost, check your salt levels.
Other, more extensive techniques of checking exist; but, we believe these two tests will provide you with a good indicator. After doing these tests, if you suspect your chlorinator isn’t working, contact the manufacturer for assistance or call your Pool Pro Professional.
This material has been provided to Pool Pro in good faith and without prejudice. Pool Pro Products assumes no responsibility for the correctness of this material because they are unable to perform site inspections and determine the actual problem visually, by their own assessments, or by contacting a specialist in this sector.
When a salt cell fails, what causes it to fail?
Check the power first. Make sure the test button on your salt cell isn’t popped or tripped if it’s plugged into a GFI outlet. If your salt system is hardwired, voltage fluctuations may cause the controller to malfunction.
After that, make sure the pool’s salt level is correct. Even if your device displays a digital salt level, it is recommended that you use salt test strips because it is possible that the digital salt level is incorrect.
Examine the water flow. Water flow can be reduced to such a low level by dirty pump baskets, blocked impellers, or clogged filters that minimal chlorine is created. For the same reason, check the pump timer.
Make sure your water balance is correct. Your pH and cyanuric acid levels, in particular. Chlorine can be difficult to use when the pH is high and the CYA is low. To lessen the stress on your salt cell, maintain a pH of 7.2-7.6 and a CYA (or stabilizer) level of 30-50 ppm. Excessive utilization of the salt cell promotes scale formation and may result in premature cell failure.
Do you have a clean salt cell? The metallic plates of a salt cell generate a scale accumulation that lowers chlorine output as it creates the electrolysis needed to convert the salty water to chlorine.
The polarity of new salt systems can be reversed to slough off accumulated scale. Other devices may feature a light that indicates when the cell has to be cleaned manually. Older salt systems have neither, and therefore must be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis.
A clean salt cell, good flow, and proper water balance and salt level can restore chlorine production or, in some situations, resolve unrelated error codes. So give these a shot first, and you might not even need a new salt cell or controller hardware.
What is the expected lifespan of a Zodiac salt cell?
It’s not always easy to tell when a salt cell needs to be replaced. Many abnormalities in the system create symptoms that are similar to one another. When new saltwater pool owners make the mistake of blaming a broken cell, the underlying problem is typically elsewhere.
However, the following are strong indicators that the salt cell should be cleaned, repaired, or replaced:
- A Check Salt notice appears in the power center. A water sample, on the other hand, reveals typical salt levels.
- The Cell Warning light stays on for a short time after cleaning and then turns off.
- The voltage is more than it should be.
- Amperage fluctuates (it should normally be zero or just slightly above)
- The SCG isn’t able to produce chlorine (could potentially indicate a cell issue)
The importance of timing cannot be overstated. A salt cell typically lasts 10,000 hours, which is around five years for most home pool owners. If your cell phone is approaching or has passed the 10,000-hour mark, and you observe any of the above indicators, it may be time to replace it. Unless the main problem is a shortage of chlorine, which isn’t enough to rule out a salt cell issue.
Is it necessary to fill the chlorinator with water?
A sufficient flow of water is required for the saltwater chlorinator to function properly. Insufficient water flow might cause the chlorinator to produce less chlorine due to a filthy skimmer basket, blocked or dirty filter, and clogged pump strainer.